The Foundations of Your Hair Care Routine: Shampoo and Conditioner

In this article you'll learn how to Shampoo hair to minimize product waste, reduce oil and scalp issues, and have healthier shinier hair. I'll teach you about the double wash method and give pointers on picking out the right shampoos and conditioners for your hair so you can build the foundations of your hair care routine.

Shampooing your hair is something we've been doing all our lives. But many people think it's as simple as throw a handful of shampoo in their hair and rinse. That often leads to not only wasting product, but could be partially to blame for a lot of common scalp issues like greasiness or flakes.

To effectively clean your hair and use as minimal as possible of your shampoo product it is recommended by professionals to wash your hair 2x using small amounts of shampoo and follow with conditioner. This is how I approach shampooing the hair in the salon, I always shampoo to clarify first, shampoo again, then condition the hair.

The Double Wash Method

The first shampoo usually a pea size to quarter size amount depending on how much hair you have should be considered like a pre-wash. This first round will loosen up any dirt, oil, sweat, and build up off the scalp and hair.

After putting the amount you need in your hands, rub your hands together to work it up a little before applying to the front, top, and underneath nape area of the head and work it around the scalp with your fingers. It likely won't suds up a lot - especially if your hair is really dirty. Once you feel like you've gotten it spread throughout the head, rinse.

The second shampoo is what actually cleanses your hair. You'll use another small amount depending on how much hair you have, work it in your hands first and apply just like the first shampoo. This second shampoo should suds up as desired. Once all your hair has been shampooed, rinse.

You ALWAYS want to condition after shampooing. Both water and shampoo always have a higher pH than the hair which will slightly open the cuticle. Conditioner is almost always a lower pH than hair and its main purpose other than hydrating and softening the hair is to help close the cuticle by lowering the pH back down to where it needs to be. You want to leave your conditioner in the hair for up to 3-5 minutes then rinse.

What should you be looking for in a shampoo and conditioner?

The short answer is to avoid sulfates, parabens, and opt for cleaner options with less harsh chemicals. The long answer is to also find good quality shampoos that have ingredients that are formulated to the right molecular size to actually be absorbed into the hair and not just sit on the outside creating a waxy build up.

The more in depth answer is that it also depends on your hair type and texture and if you have any hair or scalp concerns. I'll break it down more below.

Fine Hair: Usually has a tighter cuticle and may be prone to oil and lack volume. Fine hair does best with lighter shampoos that are deeper cleansing and lightly moisturizing conditioners or those designed specifically for volume. I personally like Unite 7SECONDS Shampoo and Conditioner as it's light enough to not weigh down my fine hair, yet still perfectly balanced for hydration.

Coarse Hair: Often is lacking in moisture or is more prone to frizz. Therefore shampoos and conditioners that are more moisturizing are often better to help fight the frizz and restore the hair's hydration due to the cuticle being rougher and more open. Try Moroccanoil Hydrating Shampoo and Hydrating Conditioner.

Curly and Coily Hair: Generally there are less issues with excessive oil and more issues with the hair lacking hydration or being frizzy. You'll want to opt for a gentle cleansing shampoo that is more on the heavier hydration side and a hydrating conditioner as well. We want to give your hair as much moisture as it's willing to take in order to combat and erase the frizz - especially if its on the coarser side. Finer curly/coily hair will want to opt for a mildly hydrating conditioner if heavier conditioners weigh down their hair too much. Try Design Me Bounce Me Curl Shampoo and Bounce Me Curl Conditioner.

Oily Hair: Generally we see more oil accumulation with straighter and wavy hair. So you'll want a shampoo that is a bit more of a deeper cleanse and a conditioner that matches your fine or coarse hair needs. Try Scalp Sync Clarifying Shampoo and Scalp Sync Universal Conditioner.

Damaged Hair from excessive heat or chemicals: You are going to want something more on the repairing side that contains keratin, proteins, collagen, and/or amino acids to help repair and rebuild the hair. Try L'Anza Keratin Healing Oil Shampoo and Healing Oil Conditioner or K18 Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask. (I know - not a shampoo or a conditioner but damn is it good at repairing hair! Pro tip: get the 0.5oz size it's all you'll need.)

Dry scalp: Most of the time when we see the white flakes, it's indicative of a lack of moisture in the scalp. Your scalp is skin - it gets dry and reacts just like our face, hands, and the rest of our body. What do you do when your skin is dry? Moisturize it. Same thing applies with the scalp. Try a gentle cleansing and hydrating shampoo and conditioner to start (and throw away anything marketed for dandruff). I recommend Unite 7SECONDS Shampoo and Conditioner. If that doesn't show signs of progress in two weeks, we may need to reassess if it's one of these other underlying deeper causes:

Your scalp's pH may be off balance: Try Biolage Scalp Sync Calming Shampoo and Scalp Sync Universal Conditioner

Your using something with an ingredient or fragrance your scalp may be sensitive or allergic to: Try switching to a fragrance free or hypoallergenic shampoo and conditioner like Aiir Diamond Shampoo and Diamond Conditioner

Your using a shampoo that's creating a build up on your scalp: this is most commonly from drugstore or counterfeit professional products bought at large chain stores that make be fakes or expired (which is why we always say buy products from your hairstylist or authorized salon retailers and not big box stores.)

Dandruff: It is commonly larger oilier flakes than dry scalp and your hair will also be oilier in most cases. This is when you want something that targets dandruff. Try Biolage Scalp Sync Anti-Dandruff Shampoo or Briogeo Scalp Revival Mega Strength Dandruff Shampoo and follow with conditioner of choice to target hair concerns.